Into The Grottos

Italy has a hard time keeping savory food salty. With sweet boiled dumplings and plums stuffed inside potato dough, they are so on to something many outside Europe would be skeptical of trying. Torta di Latticini alla Lucana is "technically" a savory pie with ricotta, pecorino and saliccia but with the addition of sugar, I'm not sure what it's best for. Maybe breakfast? Regardless, it's tasty, and I guess it could mimic a sweeter version of pizza rustica.

People once hid in worn down grottos on the cliffside of Matera, housing their donkeys from a day at work while preparing meals in their small kitchens that opened to a room with a bed and one toilet. If there are mountains there are sheep; cheeses like Pecorino filliano or canestrato di moleterno, a basket aged cheese treated with salt, vinegar, oil, and sometimes char water. The cheese is leaner in the winter and fattier in the summer due to the diets of the sheep and goats in different seasons.

There is not a single piece of fish on our table scape here. But, Basilicata is positioned central to greener land that grow pera signora della valle del sinni along with all the land where sheep graze. Italy expands itself out like a jetty, so each region pretty much borders the sea on one perimeter. Basilicata is not one of those  regions, and instead of fish, the greener pastures roam with sheep and herding shepherds.

Minuich is the minimalist pasta of Bastilicata. It's the pasta that looks a bit scrappy yet tastes sort of like candelli pasta. It's this long pasta that one rolls around a metal skewer and pulls off to create a hollow- pressed too tightly- spiral. The tradition of serving this would be with a saucy ragu that soaks up all the tomato bits. It is also great in a tomato sauce of broccoli rape. It was lovely to see someone with such a sweet face cranking out pasta for hours. I wanted so badly to jump in and help her. I hope she is fed the biggest bowl of Minuich at the end of the night. Every night.

Nibbles and Bits of Baccala

Everyone says you must eat like a Roman in Rome so that means Pork Jowl, and lots of pepper and parmesan. The trio of pastas you will find on every single menu in Rome are Amatriciana, Carbonara, and Cacio e Pepe. So of course the pasta freak that I am, had to try each one on a different night out. Amatriciana is one of my favorites! Guanciale is pork jowl that must be salted for five days, hung over a fire place to smoke to continue aging for another thirty days. It's funky immensely fatty texture melts all over the stewing tomatoes. I learned about this pasta at my favorite restaurant in Rhode Island, when I was living in Newport for five months. I always fantasize about the days I would get a large takeout container of Bucatini alla Amatriciana from Pasta Beach.

I was not happy with Cacio e Pepe that I found in Rome, so perhaps when I venture back to Rome this weekend I will re-evaluate my options. My business with pasta is not over. However, Carbonara and amatriciana were classically done well, and I was satisfied. Too much heavy food in one weekend though, so I’m feeling the need for a future cleanse. 

Chestnuts are roasted in every street corner. They line the bronze pans in perfect proportions until they are roasted and tossed into a bag for the giddy tourist. I loved seeing the chestnut take control of the street food scene. We also found the Italian Jewish Ghetto in Rome which struck feelings within. Although the Jews had been in Italy long before Christ, they were greatly affected by the Holocaust of World War ll. I wonder if food was the victims scapegoat to happier days.

Rome is full of piazzas and alley ways lined with restaurants, tables and chairs outside, with awnings to cover. They are all lined up for blocks. We were on a serious look out for falafel with hummus, baba ganoush, baccala- the Jewish are notorious for it- and fried artichoke flower in the Jewish Ghetto. I don't know about my parents, but I was satisfied with that alone. I would not have imagined to eat falafel in Italy, and it was so darn good.

Well before visiting Lazio and the country of Vatican City, I pondered across a dessert; a sweet bun filled with whipped cream. I was excited to seek out those places that sold these plump sweet rolls with my favorite dessert topping. Although, when I finally got my hands on one it was after proofing the dough for nearly 3 hours and baking them until puffy and cool. The day after returning from Rome I was lucky to bake these in class. Cut a slit diagonally down the center and load in the cream! They almost remind me of hot cross buns with the candied fruit and raisins. All so very good.

Hands Of The Pugliese Woman.

Wouldn't it be a bit ironic if I hadn't spent time in Puglia learning tradition from the ones who inhabit the land? I was fortunate amongst others to take the time and watch a home cook dwindle her hands through focaccia dough, clean bearded mussels, and chat up a storm in Italian which most of us only understood little of. For two consecutive days we learned the right way to cook Pugliese food and what it meant to live in this region.

For almost two months I have slept, walked, drove, and eaten along the coast- north to south. I have lived in a new place and I have learned. But, what's more important is actually being with and watching the ones who know the heart of their culture. I was lucky to have this experience aside from the wonderful professionals who teach us day to day; even they too, can learn something new.

So, focaccia is used as a loose term in America, for those who know it as the fluffy dense pizza crust topped only with little sauce and gooey cheese. But here, focaccia is used for many different styles of bread and this focaccia happens to be the one we are familiar with. It also happens to call it's home, Puglia. It's perfectly crusty on the bottom and glutinous in the middle after three hours of proofing. Caterina worked her magic slapping the dough against the bowl to create lots of elasticity, a technique I haven't seen before. The only thing left to add to this sticky mass were tomatoes, (olives) and olive oil since Puglia is best known for the production of. I promise you it's not like anything you've ever had!

Tiella di Riso Patate e Cozze is a total mouthful. Potato, tomato, mussels, and rice with all the essense of garlic and onion too. Catarina lives in Bari- the capital of Puglia- and this one pot meal is from Bari, and Bari only. Baked specifically in a terracotta pot, the ingredients are layered on top of each-other in systemic order; aromatics, tomato, potato, cheese, mussels, rice, and potato. It's super simple, fairly inexpensive and a mild seafood dish to celebrate the coast. 

Taralli (made similarly to a bagel) are like the be all end all to the classic potato chip. It may only be me who thinks that, but they are so satisfying when you're looking for a salty snack. They are tender and crunchy and buttery, all the good characteristics of nutrition-less snacks. For some reason I really enjoy the simplest cracker- like snacks. I've always requested plain Goldfish, oyster crackers, table water crackers, and taralli from the store if I had a hankering for crunch. My grandma Chetti always knew how to perk up my tastebuds after school.

THE Imperial Clam

After picking up my dear Christopher at the airport we spent the day in Polignamo a Mare catching fish. Not really, but we did eat some raw seafood, practically fresh off the boat! We ate at a place called Da Tuccino, best known for its incredible raw seafood. Some critters I have never before seen, and some names I had to laugh at too; like carpet clams and hairy mussels. What really stumped us was the imperial clam, the one that looks like egg drop soup. Chris wasn't willing to try since we couldn't quite figure out what we were looking at, but I dabbed into it a little. We also tried raw cuttlefish and red shrimp- Gamberini di Rossi- which is very popular in Puglia to eat raw with olive oil and squeeze of lemon. Some like to suck the heads of the shrimp or prawns like they do in southern America, but I don't recommend it.

What I found unique was the shrimp cocktail. The red shrimp were cooked and served warm with an aioli that tasted of warm mayo and ketchup. The shrimp were drenched in this sauce, I couldn't even see them on the plate. I was very surprised to see something so fresh and delicate served this way.

Christopher could live by the ocean for eternity, but me, I loved these Truili houses. If I ever had the means to purchase a home in Italy, I would buy a Truili house in Alberobello. They were so precious and so imperfect with their cute slanted doors and colorful flowers scattered about. The Trulli houses are a sign of love and fertility and many have painted designs on their cone-shaped roofs. Puglia is known for craftsmanship so, many of the storefronts sell handwoven linen towels with peacocks, Truili houses, or stripes. Although a bit of a tourist area I had to buy one because it's something to remember from the area. What I also loved about this town was how the village wove together like a corn maze, but I wasn't scared to get stuck in between. The houses were so quiet and small, I fantasized families inside spending hours together drinking cafe while Sunday dinner was brewing on the stove. 

For what Puglia has to offer these are the best spots to be! Right between the ocean and a slanted doorway in Alberobello. 

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Calabrese Cuisine Is All For Peperoncino

I like the thought of eating spicy food, but I can only bear the heat so much. Thinking about pepperoncino brings me memories of Chinese dumplings dipped in chili oil. Nduja sausage is melted into candele pasta- a foot long pasta that's slightly larger than ziti- and served without cheese. You will not find spicy food eaten with cheese here, which I find very hard to understand! This is similar to how people here won't eat fish with cheese, unless your in Sicily of course. 

I could not wait to dig my fork into this meat and cheese pie. It's similar to pizza rustica, but instead Pizza con la Ricotta. It also has hard boiled eggs and sausage encased in this thick crust that was baked and flipped to crisp. There is lots of black pepper inside too. It reminds me of Easter time at home when my mothers family makes Easter Pie on Good Friday each year. The smells taunts us for hours until we are able to eat meat again at mid-night. 

"Love Is A Dream, Sweet As Milk And Liquorice."

You will find an interest for liquorice in this region as well, and some of the best know globally. The older I get the more I realize how picky I am ( at least I think) and the random things I do not like to eat. Liquorice is one of them. I never had the slightest lick of taste for licorice, it just makes me feel a bit upset. Liquorice root is quite different than the black processed kind you see in the candy aisle at Party City, but it's also much better for you too. Glycyrrhizin is a compound found in the wooden stick that is supposedly fifty times sweeter than sugar! It's supposed to aide you back to health from the common cold or liver disease.  

No Sardines In Sardinia? They Had Me Fooled

So I wonder why they named this island Sardinia. Although I am sure you can find sardines in this region, they don't play a huge role in their cuisine as they do in Sicily. The food in this region is consistent throughout. Some of the other fish common to Sardinia are shellfish like clams (arsella /vongola), mussels, and lobster. The fregola sarda is wonderful with carpet shell clams ( I can't get over the name), absolutely tender clams with toothsome pasta similar to ancini di pepe. Oh, how I miss my ancini di peppe with chicken broth and lots of grated cheese!  Fregola is a toasted Israeli cuscus that is cooked similar to a risotto. In Sardinia, they serve it over a delicate cracker-like bread called Pane Carasau. The bread is proofed twice, rolled thin like an oversized pita or naan bread, baked to a puff, and sliced through the middle. As a side anecdote, bread art dominates the region with its tiny figurines and sculptures made of pure bread. I don't know how it's possible to make bread look so perfect and detailed, but my thought is it tastes pretty tough. Imagine bread wreaths made of roses and leafy petals. Whats more ambitious are the ones that look like a replica of the nativity scene. So creative.

What we also realized is that Sardinia was the first region in Italy to grow grapes for wine production. Cannonau, Malvasia, Vernaccia are just a few. The red cannonau wine is related to the Grenache of Spain and France. The most common to drink in Sardinia with its plum, tobacco, and intense red berry notes. Malvasia wine has a honeysuckle aroma and almond flavor that's great with a super sweet dessert like Spanish Sedeas. This Spanish pastry is made with durum flour, stuffed with cheese, fried, and drenched in honey (sounds delightful). Vernaccio is a superb white, floral wine produced similarly to that of Sherry. Drink with a fondu of pecorino Sardo and crusty bread.

Melanzana: The Unhealthy Apple

The Sicilians were first to lay their hands on the eggplant in Italy. They are called dangerous by their name mela- apple and inzana- unhealthy. Since they are a nightshade veggie just as tomatoes and potatoes are, and they have harmful side effects eaten raw. They don't taste great raw anyways so why would you give up the opportunity to have fried eggplant cutlets, caponata, pasta alla norma with caciocavallo or parmigiana? Caponata is typically served room temperature with pignoli nuts (pine nuts), olives, and capers in a sauce thats both sweet and sour. It's great as a contorni (side dish) or mixed into pasta, you know that's how I eat most things. 

Sicily has some of the best food I have discovered in Italian cuisine so far and due to their diverse heritage and Arabic food ways that include aromatic and colorful ingredients. One thing that I thought stood out and varied differently from European cuisine was cuscus. It's very common to see it made in the middle east, served with vegetables and meat. Sicily was the first to serve this tiny fragment of wheat with seafood, just as we had it today. The pasta for this region varies a bit differently than the north in that the doughs are made with farina (zero) flour and water, no eggs. They are also usually extruded pastas like rigatoni served with a delicious aromatic cavolfiore (cauliflower) sauce. Then there are other pastas  like those made with everyones favorite micro fish, the sardine and anchovy. I think I have had enough of these guys before we started cooking with them. Is that terrible of me to say? If I think back on all the dishes with sardines or anchovies that we have made (and counting tomorrow and the next two weeks) I think it's amazing how many ways you can use them. They are either eaten as a side dish, meal, or used as a condiment. Fresh or salt brined, they are like the herring to Scandinavia, also something I am not so fond of.

WINE with Me:

Passito di Pantelleria are dried grapes used to make a very sweet tispy wine. Sicily, as an island off Italy, is kind of in its own world. There are so many DOC and IGP products throughout, and wine happens to make up its own huge list. Erice (white wine/ Inzolia grape/ best with shellfish), Etna (made from the volcanic ashes of Europes largest volcano), Faro ( red/ nero di avola or pinot noir grape/ best with hearty meat stews and braises). I love the marsala wine really because it's wondeful to cook with (sweet or savory). The "liquor wine" comes from Trapani Sicily with grapes harvested from Marsala.

Cibo Di Favola: A Fairy Tale Lunch At The Castello

I think it's fitting, a fairy tale meal in a castle that is. We found it hard to come up with a theme, thought thru and thru what we would do and we finally thought it be kind of charming to do an Italian fairy tale in a Castle. All I could think about was the table scape none- the less and what the guests would be most intrigued to see when they walked in. I practically picked the whole garden behind the castle to emulate the tales of each course while keeping things elegant and dainty. 

The class invited guests from the community- absolute gems- to feast at our luncheon that we must host twice during this semester. Someone narrated the four fairy tales per course. We invited Davide and his wife who own a restaurant in town and feed us copious amounts of food when dining in. We also invited Sergio from the deli, Benedetto Cavalieri from Benedetto Cavalieri Pasta factory that we visited a few weeks ago (I brought home 3 bags of free pasta), and Ugeo the pastry chef. Owners Massimo and Diana sat in along with our instructors Chef Odette and Chef Martin with lovely wife.

Gamberi al rosmarino con fagioli e arancia, paired with Falanghina, Mastroberardino, 2016

Aperitivo poured, or d'oeuvres set, and first course is on its way. Bread and Grissini decorate the table waiting to be chomped on or sopped up by the extra bits from each plate. First course was a puree of beans, topped with sautéed prawns, bitter orange slices, and candied rosemary flowers.

Papardelle con le erbe del nostro giardino, uovo crudo e limone olio al cristantemo, paired with Falanghina, Mastroberardino, 2016

Tried and tested for weeks by my peers, a chrysanthemum laminated pasta dough, with ricotta, herb oil, and confit egg yolk. Delightful I tell all. So very tender and creamy and delicious, with a touch of sophistication. 

Capretto brasato, polenta con aglio al forno, insalata di bieta e mandorle, paired with Trentangeli, Tomaresca, 2015

Although I don't eat goat because I am obsessed with them, the entire table could not be happier with it. Creamy polenta and a viscous jus highlight the brasato.

Spicchio di arancia, cioccolato e finocchio, paired with Crema Limoncello

Always dessert first, I think. I was part of the group to create this "elevated sweet." Its practically picking apart the components of a tart we were inspired by and reconstructing it. Dots of orange marmalade, peaks of whipped ganache, chocolate sponge, anise gelato, candied cedar lemon, and dehydrated orange peel, fried fennel frawn, and purple borage flower all atop a tart crescent. I love dishes like this because each component- although separate from the rest- meld together in symphony. 

Lovely way to end the study of northern Italian cuisines. Stay tuned for things are moving south!

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Sprinkle With Polenta

There are so many ways to cook Polenta in Lombardia so it's important I showcase at least one of- what I think- is super unique. It totally looks like a chicken nugget, but you will never find that in the cuisine here unless you go to McDonald's (yes Italy has those too). The Fiapon Mantovano is a sweet polenta- sugar and lemon- that has been fried to be eaten at the end of the meal. It can take on any shape you mold it to. We also had grilled polenta topped with lard and diced polenta with a buttery sauce. The important realization about Polenta is that it's served firm in Lombardia and soft in other regions like Veneto. Four main grains are Bramata, Fiorette, Fumetto, and Integrale. I remember when I was younger (and it was probably the only time she did it) my mom purchased store bought polenta and I remember thinking of the cheap taste. I thought I would never like polenta until I had it hot and creamy. Polenta is the perfect accompaniment with a brassato (braise) like Osso Bucco or goat, and often served in place of bread. 

So one of my absolute favorite pasta dishes come from this region. Pizzocheri is the name of the dish and the shape of the pasta. It looks like fettuccini that's been cut in half and doubled in thickness. Buckwheat is not for everyone's taste but with savoy cabbage, potato, and loads of bito cheese, grana padano, and browned butter with sage you won't be able to put your fork down. My mouth is watering just thinking about it. Besides Extra Virgin Garda DOP olive oil, the region bathes in butter. Butter and sage coat polenta and pasta everywhere here!

 Something I am having a hard time coming to terms with Salame d'Oca a sausage made with ground goose and wrapped in the skin on the goose too. It looks quite peculiar if you could imagine. It's similar to the concept of ground rabbit wrapped in pork trotter which I was able to taste in class today. Although it was so juicy and flavor-filled it had a slightly slimy texture due to the outer case. Some things are meant to be tried only once. I love this region though, and excited to live there at the end of my travels here.

Commensality And The Things You Don't Share

One day we will drink together, communally sharing the warm feeling of hot coffee, grappa, and cinnamon in our tummies. LA GROLLA DELL’AMICIZIA is this wooden carafe from Valle d'Aosta that stays true to its meaning of commensality. Its purpose is for all Italian friends or family to pass around and drink from, each from their own spout. What could possibly be more loving than this? Or maybe not so. Whats interesting about this vessel is that you open the top, pour in the liquid, and set it on fire. The alcohol must burn out before drinking, although the residual bit is still good too. 

Fondu of Fontina Valdostana is, without ruining your desire to try it, so stinky. It's funky and I wish I liked it, really I do but I can't bring myself to enjoy. It's an important DOP cheese and it's made only from the black or red Pezzata cows in the alpines. Along with that, you have over sixteen varieties of bacteria helping aide the aging process for three months and then, whats more, it gets buried in rock with high levels of humidity. I think I have you sold right? It's a great cheese, truly, and it works well with crusty, fluffy bread to dip. Just in case you don't like, make sure the pot is in the center of the table.

The Raviolo di Uovo is not for sharing. Everyone gets their own. I get my own. I confess that I had two of these today, and it's one of the best pasta meals I have had ever. Chef Odette Fada has "perfected" the raviolo after two decades of trial and error. The ricotta so creamy and smooth, perfect saltiness, pasta dough tender and bright yellow, and then the egg yolk that creates a natural sauce had me wanting my second piece before I finished the first. Also, running up to get the second one was a bit sneaky. It's like a plump pouch of all evil- everything bad for the cholesterol- and I suppose good for my mood. 

Every day we eat these large meals that end with a little something sweet. Baci di Dama (Lady's Kisses) are petite, delicate hazelnut cookies that have a little crunch and then melt in your mouth right away. Piemonte is famous for its nocciola spread- Nutella- and a little is smeared between these domed shaped baci for a quick treat. When Napoleon taxed chocolate in the 1800s, factories began to add hazelnut flour to their chocolate to stretch the quantity of their product. And so out of this came the Gianduia, the next thing I want to try! Nutella is so unobtrusive to anything you eat it with which is why no one ever wants to share it.

Sugar and Spice

This is the week where we venture off to some other parts of Europe that we would never expect to get a taste of. I am finding the ingredients and flavor combos from Italy's northeastern regions to be some of my favorite food. Friuli Venezia Giulia is described as a "double region" because it borders Slovenia and Austria, and definitely has some Hungarian notes in there as well. All to find in these rugged mountains and vast landscapes are mulberry bushes, cheese, and lots of prosciutto from the fattiest pigs. Smoked meats are also common here, and families would gather in the Fogolar ( room in the center of their homes) to burn these huge fires to smoke salami while staying warm. My mouth waters when I see the cotechino a sausage made from pork, wine, and lard that is so delicious. It falls apart as you eat it because it's so tender from all the fat within. It's also very similar to the spreadable ciauscolo from Marche which is why I like it. 

Cinnamon and saffron are the two most common ingredients in Friuli Venezia Giulia. I have never tasted a sweetened pasta or boiled dumpling before, but leave it to those regions closest to Italy on the northeast side where, here you will get all of that and more. Boiled dumplings filled with potatoes, onions, cinnamon, and raisins called Cialsons may make you scratch your head a bit. Sprinkle with Pecorino Romano and they should almost be more savory than sweet... almost. They are typically eaten for dinner, and then dessert you have another boiled dumpling filled with nuts and sugar and dusted with more sugar! I can see eating Sucio if they were fried, but not boiled. I am really trying to understand the textures of slimy cornmeal and spinach Paparot and goulash, but it's so hard to get used to a sweet pasta dish like Lasagne ai Semi di Papavero (see below). So very difficult.

***sweet sausage and dumplings made by the class.

Poppy Seeds and sugar, you really want to know? See the link below to learn how to make Lasagne ai semi di Papavero or Mákos Tészta . It's one of the most unique pastas you will ever try. x

Italienisch Essenszeiten

I have enjoyed all the varied cuisines of Italy up until this point, but then we got to dip our Italian feet into something a bit more diverse. Trentino Alto Adige borders Switzerland, Austria, and beyond that Hungary and Germany which means the food dynamic expands in greater time than Italy itself. So if your thinking about pancetta, think of Speck (German Prosciutto) and the pasta, well there is no lasagna Bolognese here, but rather spaetzle. Barley soup, and fried ravioli (fried not boiled) and insalata di barbabietole ( chiggoia beet salad) with red wine and cumin are exactly what you will be eating in this corner of the country. There is something slightly more earthy and hearty about the German, Austrian, Hungarian influence here and I kind of like it.

Salt was very hard to come by in the north so many families had their own spice mixes. Garlic, coriander, clove, cinnamon, cumin, and juniper berries made it into Italy through trade, otherwise, you will not find these ingredients anywhere else in Italy. It really took me by surprise that I was going to cook German and Austrian food in Italy. I was so intrigued by the names too, like leberknodel (bread dumpling with liver) or smacafam (moist bread with sausage and pancetta).

And whats more, all of the apples to pick. The mountains are full of apples and more than you will find anywhere else in Europe. Trentino has eleven apple varieties stamped with IGP status, meaning they are guaranteed to be the best. Germany and Austria are also very keen on apple filled desserts like frittelle di mele. If you could imagine a perfectly round apple slice dipped in batter, fried, and eaten warm then I think I have you sold. Then, something a bit more peculiar, a sweet that I don't think should be classified as an after-dinner treat: Zwetschgenknodeln. Can you even pronounce it? Its a dough of pureed potato (think gnocchi), sugar, and egg stuffed with an apricot or plum, boiled then rolled in breadcrumb. The last bit involves cutting open the baseball sized dumpling and sprinkling sugar on top right before consumption. Just think about it for a second... potato, breadcrumbs, and sugar (so interesting)! I think the food profile in Trentino is one of the best I have studied yet, keep it coming Italy!

The Crescent Fish

Small crescent-shaped Liguria curves the west coast of Italy. How else should I explain this region other than the excellent fish harvested? Red Mullet, Octopus, and Shrimp are some of the best products they offer too. Oh, and I must not forget about the anchovies, they are notorious for those as well. 

Some of our favorite sauces like tomato, carbonara, and Bolognese are what have paved a way through the boot of Italy in different instances. And then there is pesto, the vibrant and refreshing sauce made from basil leaves, parmesan, and pignoli nuts that are so important to this area. Basilico Genovese (basil), is a  DOP product in Liguria and harvested from April to October. 

Maybe you will find yourself hopping from mountain to mountain in Cinque Terre feasting on some of the popular foods there. Focaccia di Recco is an IGP, unleavened bread baked with a soft cheese sandwiched between the two layers of dough. Just think creamy, crunchy salty goodness and a perfect treat to eat hot in hand while sightseeing. January sets the perfect scene for feasting on hot soups with veggies and potatoes and can you think of anything besides minestrone soup to suit that purpose? My mother always makes minestrone with ditalini and then I load it with cheese, but here there is no pasta (I really wanted to add some).

I think I feel a different way about squid after popping their ink all over my jacket. Totani Ripieni is filled with a stuffing containing taggiasche olives that are these tiny fruits packed in oil and delicious eaten alone, never- mind the squid. Farinata is a savory torta made with chickpea flour and a unique composition of ingredients. Liguria makes use of their chickpea products.

 Canestrelli are the most tender cookies I may have ever tasted. They look like a shortbread cookie, but crumble and melt in your mouth so fast you barely have to chew. They are light and dense at the same time. I think the most interesting part about their composition is grated hardboiled egg yolk and potato starch which aides in the cookie crumble. It's a nice addition to the end of a fishy meal, or the begining!

Bombolini For The Boy

My dearest Christopher, I wish you were here to make these with me so we could eat them together again...

Not too long ago when you took me to Marea for lunch, we had a surprise dessert course with a few fluffy puffs called Bombolini. I think you liked those more than the rest of the meal, right? When we learned about the cuisine of Toscana in school we had to recreate these yeasty, Italian-like doughnuts, and ironically I was asked to make them. I just remember thinking of how happy you were in that moment we ate them together and how full we were, but you couldn't stop yourself from having the last one I gave up for you (thats my boy)! 

I wish you could have tasted these fresh out of the fryer, in each stage they came; before sugar, with sugar, and filled with chocolate and pomegranate jam, while hot, and at room temp, so you can tell me what you thought of them all over again. You would have been taken aback, to the memory of Christmas in New York, when you ate your first with me. 

Cin! Cin!

Carnevale is celebrated largely in Veneto on December 21st to February 13th before the no meat streak of Lent begins. It's a necessary time to make all things fried, sweet and heavy like frittelle di zucca (fried quenelles of pumpkin and raisins) or frittelle di carnevale (fried dough with raisins and pine nuts rolled in granulated sugar). I grew up Catholic, so I know what it's like to go meatless on Fridays and Ash Wednesday. It means time to feast on lots of fish like salt dried Baccala or Stoccafisso (air dried cod) baked in milk. Or how about Saor, which is fried fish with onions, raisins  and pine nuts. Riso Nano Vialone is closer to my preferences; a risotto with cuttle fish ink and sautéed baby squid. So you pick your choices...you can always have pasta too.

In this region you find the perfect wine for this occasion; Prosecco made with a grape called glera or Armarone made from the grapes rondinella and corvina in Valpolicella. Amarone is good for those meaty meals and bubbles to cleanse the mouth from the greasy treats.  

Masquerade masks, vibrant outfits, and confetti place themselves all over the cities in Italy. Every region I've visited so far, I've seen traces of rainbow confetti in celebration. But, the remains of the party is all I find, I have yet to see the costumes and the masks and the celebration in action. I want to see those who wear the Bauta, Colombina, or Volto masks; the ones that are diamond shaped with pointy chins and no mouth, the mask for the eyes with fancy feathers, or the porcelain ones that resemble a human face with gold and silver lips. One day I will take part!

Pasta, Flowers, and The Duomo

It almost sounds as if  I'm writing the foreword to a romantic story when I speak about how I went to Florence, ate pasta and bought myself flowers. Some of that statement is true, but not all, I did not buy myself flowers. I actually did spend the weekend in Tuscany, touring Florence and the Leaning Tower of Pisa. I found that Tuscany has some of the best food I have eaten while in Italy, however the bread was a bit of a disappointment to me. The bread was very dense and lacked salt, (I prefer light and airy with flavor). I found a small piece of history that evoked the truth of salt- less bread. During the 12th century, when Pisa was fighting Florence, the Pisans thought that blocking the Florentines salt shipment would make them surrender, and in fact, it didn't. The Florentines were too stubborn to lose a war and thought it would be better to make bread without salt. I think maybe they should have re-thought that one.

Even though the bread was a disappointment, I had some of the best pasta in Florence and in class when we studied that region. I always talk about pasta and I hope you are catching on to my endless love for it. I ate my first does at Trattori 4 Leoni with one of my best friends from home, Katie, who happens to be studying in Italy as well. I could not have asked for a better day! For lunch, we both had beggars purses of tender pasta stuffed with pear and coated with a taleggio cream sauce. Later that evening, I had large ravioli stuffed with black cabbage and coated in cinghiale and a cocoa sauce (cinghiale is wild boar, which is so popular in Tuscany that they recognize it with a statue in the city). So many flavor profiles that actually worked very well together and left me wanting more. In class we made a pasta dish called pici senesi, where we hand rolled each strand of pasta, boiled them and served them tossed in olive oil with pepper flakes and croutons. The texture of the pasta was perfectly al dente and the crunch of the tiny, buttery croutons was ever so satisfying.

The Florentine streets have so much character. Aside from the posh clothing stores and high-end restaurants, I was reminded at every turn that this city is known for history and art. I passed a man painting in his studio that also doubles as an art gallery. Before I could sneak a picture, he turned to me and smiled. Then there was a woman making violins in a closet-sized workshop that only she could fit in. There she sat, amidst curls of shaved wood and instrument parts, building the perfect piece of art. 

As we approached the Ponte Vecchio, my dear friend Katie explained to me that during WWII, Hitler thought it best to keep the Ponte Vecchio bridge standing because of how captivating its artwork was. Once again, such an historical and beautiful thing to see and walk across, gazing at all of the gold and silver while eating mint gelato topped with whipped cream. 

And then, there it stood, the Duomo. I kept hearing about how beautiful it is, but hadn't a clue what to expect. There is such magnificence in this world!

A quick excursion to Pisa to see the tower up close. It was much smaller than I had perceived it to be, and funny enough, my mother said the same thing before I could give her my two cents about it. And to be quite honest, I was more fascinated by how many people were taking photos of themselves next to the tower pretending to push it over, or hold it up.  

To top the trip off, it was recommended to me to visit La Menagere in Florence, a hip, rustic yet modern eatery that triples as a restaurant with bar, florist shop and retail store. I went there for a Spritz Menagere with aperol (a popular Italian aperitif), fresh currants and citrus slices that lined the inside of the glass. It was so pretty, and very tasty, but what fascinated me more was the florist stand with all of the blooming protea and anemone flowers. I asked the florist the name of each flower she had for sale. I think it's the sweetest idea to have a florist shop in a restaurant. How romantic to purchase a free spirit rose for your date on the way in or out!After a quick breakfast with Katie the next morning at the same place, my schoolmates and I headed back to Lecce.  A whirlwind of a weekend!

Can I Have Just A Taste Of Everything

Emilia Romagna is one the greatest food regions in Italy because it's subdivided into provinces that are famous for specialty food items like balsamic vinegar, parmesan, prosciutto, and mortadella. It all makes sense once you realize that geographical locations make up many of the Italian foods.

The best balsamic vinegar you will ever try is the kind aged for twenty, thirty, or even fifty years which comes from Modena. It's so sweet and syrupy that you really should sip it from a cup. The aging process happens in barrels like mulberry, chestnut, or oak. As the fermented grape must from Trebbiano, Ancilotta, Lambrusco, or Sauvignon grapes, reduce it gets transported to smaller barrels that are stored in temperature controlled rooms. Parmmigiano Reggiano comes from Parma (of course), and must be two years old in order for anyone to dare and grate it on any Tortellini alla Bolognese like the one I had in Bologna. 

Proscuitto di Parma is so creamy and salty. Proscuitto- leg of the pig-  is salted and aged with a paste made with lard and flour for about twelve months.  It's common to serve cured meats like Prosciutto di Parma or mortadella with gnocco fritto. This fried dough is cut into rectangles, dropped in the deep fryer to puff a hollow golden brown pillow. They are crunchy and soft which complete the antipasti course of any party. 

Yes, mortadella from Bologna is the only place you know it will be at its best. Many ingredients and products from Italy are labeled DOP or IGT (notice the sign on the storefront) meaning that food items are either to be made a certain way in a specific region and no other region (DOP) or they are to be made a specific way and can be made anywhere (IGT). Mortadella di Bologna is an IGT product.

I never ever liked the thought of eating what looked like pink rubber with pistachios growing up, nor would my mother buy it. I take it all back now because it's so delicious especially on focaccia with squacquerone cheese; a spreadable, creamy and mild cheese that looks almost like stracciatella. No condiments unless specified, but usually just EVOO. Tortellini are also very popular in Bologna and usually filled with raw meat and cooked in poultry or meat broth or served with Bolognese sauce like how I had it at Cafe del Mercato. There are so many crevices and alleyways throughout Bologna and I came across one that was packed with tables full of charcuterie boards, lasagna, and tortellini bolognese. I had to stop and eat, it felt right.

The Cuopo From Marche

We have traveled up north to find ourselves in a rut full of yummy fried things (again), and some other simple hearty dishes too. A cuopo is a cone full of fried foods usually fish or vegetables and sold as street food in Italy. Since we were making various fried items we thought to make a little package for everyone at lunch. Olive all'ascolana is a deep fried stuffed olive with beef, pork, and chicken livers and very different to any stuffed olive you may have had from the supermarket's antipasti station. It's the most grueling process trying to remove the pit of the olive, one by one by one, without cutting the thing into pieces. For those who like hints of cinnamon and nutmeg with their meat, you should give this a go.

Anchovies are quite common in our kitchen at school and we had the greatest pleasure making them again for Marche. They were cleaned and fried fresh, and actually made the cutest garnish for the paper cone (tails first). The Cavolfiore Fritto was my favorite part of the cuopo because it was this tender, fried cauliflower with hints of anise. The batter had white wine and anise liquor incorporated, which applied so much flavor that I could not stop eating them fresh out of the fryer. I would never guess these flavors and textures to be so accomplished!

Marche has vast property great for farming, as well as the coast for fishing. Zuppa di Ceci is a chickpea stew-like dish eaten as a primi course instead of pasta. It seems that every region might have its own version of lasagna, but I think Marche is the best in show. Vincisgrassi is a layer packed, lasagna-like dish with bechamel and a meaty pancetta sauce. It can pack 32 layers of large sheets of pasta, stacked and folded one onto the next. It's so satisfying biting into a pasta dish with that many layers, the sauces and cheese overflowing onto your plate and all you can think of is getting another piece. 

I was so delighted by how good the mussels were. They were steamed and then stuffed with a herby, buttery, breadcrumb making the soft to crunchy contrast just perfect. Another interesting treat we got to try in sweet and savory form were piconi al formaggio which are in the shape of a mezzaluna and stuffed with pecorino cheese. During Easter, they are pinched at the top to make a cross that reminds people of Christ. 

Chocolate Fanatics

I cannot say that I have ever tempered chocolate before. Maybe when I was in high school I tried to pour melted chocolate into a mold and call that tempered, but now I know the real deal. No wonder chocolate is such a crafted confection; it takes a lot of patience and efficient effort to make it perfect. The best part about this process was that as a past culinary student I have never seen chocolate done before. I even remember saying to myself as a college freshman, how I didn't want to go into pastry because I didn't want to learn the art of chocolate. Sometimes we ought to kick ourselves for judging too soon. The process starts and finishes as follows...

to begin:

dark chocolate must be 45 degrees celcius.

The chocolate is poured directly onto a cool surface like granite or marble. Only about a third of what is in the bowl. 

to finish:

little by little bring the chocolate down to 32 degrees celsius.

With quick motion toss the chocolate around the counter with an offset spatula and bench scraper. Make sure you have an infrared thermometer to check the temperature of the chocolate. Once it gets down to temp you must scrape it back into the bowl, check the temperature, and repeat the process with another third of the chocolate until the temperature is adjusted to tempered chocolate. 

After the chocolate was tempered, we poured it into molds, turned them upside down, and shook out the excess chocolate. Perfectly tempered chocolate will stick to the mold, harden, and create the outer shell. After drying upside down, we add the fillings. The chocolates I made had a butter ganache filling, but some others contained cocoa- butter saffron, a parmesan pancetta ganache, and praline chocolate ganache. Once filled, the chocolates are sealed with another layer of chocolate and put in the fridge to set. 

***to take chocolates out of the molds, bang them onto the counter.

All over my Instagram feed I see gloss covered cakes and petite fours and wonder how hard it is to make those desserts. These types of cakes are usually mousse cakes covered with a glaze made of glucose syrup and condensed milk, to create that mirror-like sheen. I had no idea I would get to make my own mini version in class and had the absolute best time coming up with a design. The best part was getting to spray the mini cake with an edible spray paint. I knew I always had a knack for pastry!

A Greater Appreciation For Constant Cravings

Nothing is more exciting than going to a pasta factory and taking away a goodie bag full of free artisanal pasta. Benedetto Cavalier pasta factory has been in business for one hundred years cranking pasta in a very special way. The machines, I think, are practically old fashion, running their current life of forty years. 

Lovely Andrea, showed us around the factory pointing out every small detail. He showed us the types of semolina used to process each type of pasta as well as which ones get shipped to other countries, and how the packaging process works. The Japanese receive all the long pasta, the U.S. gets bucatini and orecchiette, Australia eats orzo, and Russia receives anellini or tubetini. Puglia has a more diversified selection like Casarecce and orecchiette. However, as the frivolous story goes, Casarecce and orecchiette are often packaged and prepared together in Puglia resembling the symbol of matrimony (the male and the female genitalia). Sometimes these things really make me chuckle.

We all put on cotton robes and hair nets in order to go upstairs to the room where they processed and dried the pasta. The dough is simply made with water and flour and shaped in rooms with high humidity in order for the pasta to dry perfectly without cracking. 

This vat opened to a pit full of different semolinas they use to process their 32 types of pasta. The white semolina is more elastic and the yellow semolina contains more protein.  More glutinous flours for longer kinds of pasta like bucatini, spaghettoni, and tagliatelle and less glutinous flour for the shorter pasta like Anellini, Tubatini, Lumache, and Ruote Medie. 

We were able to chew on spaghetti fresh off the machine producing long continuous strands. It almost tasted like it was cooked, but very al dente. I think that it's possible for a quality ingredient to make your product taste good no matter what form it's in.

As we walked through the entire factory we watched the final stages of the pasta, as it slid up the conveyor belt and dropped into bags in perfect proportions. I have noticed gendered spaces in multiple places around Italy and I think this place was definitely one that amplified that thought. While men were upstairs sweating as they pushed around carts full of spaghetti on drying racks, six women stood around a room stamping dates, hot gluing decorations, and sticking the final labels onto the bags of pasta. This gave me a greater appreciation for many artisanal products I buy and consume.  And yes, the end of our tour resulted in me gratefully walking away with four bags of pasta!