Nibbles and Bits of Baccala
Everyone says you must eat like a Roman in Rome so that means Pork Jowl, and lots of pepper and parmesan. The trio of pastas you will find on every single menu in Rome are Amatriciana, Carbonara, and Cacio e Pepe. So of course the pasta freak that I am, had to try each one on a different night out. Amatriciana is one of my favorites! Guanciale is pork jowl that must be salted for five days, hung over a fire place to smoke to continue aging for another thirty days. It's funky immensely fatty texture melts all over the stewing tomatoes. I learned about this pasta at my favorite restaurant in Rhode Island, when I was living in Newport for five months. I always fantasize about the days I would get a large takeout container of Bucatini alla Amatriciana from Pasta Beach.
I was not happy with Cacio e Pepe that I found in Rome, so perhaps when I venture back to Rome this weekend I will re-evaluate my options. My business with pasta is not over. However, Carbonara and amatriciana were classically done well, and I was satisfied. Too much heavy food in one weekend though, so I’m feeling the need for a future cleanse.
Chestnuts are roasted in every street corner. They line the bronze pans in perfect proportions until they are roasted and tossed into a bag for the giddy tourist. I loved seeing the chestnut take control of the street food scene. We also found the Italian Jewish Ghetto in Rome which struck feelings within. Although the Jews had been in Italy long before Christ, they were greatly affected by the Holocaust of World War ll. I wonder if food was the victims scapegoat to happier days.
Rome is full of piazzas and alley ways lined with restaurants, tables and chairs outside, with awnings to cover. They are all lined up for blocks. We were on a serious look out for falafel with hummus, baba ganoush, baccala- the Jewish are notorious for it- and fried artichoke flower in the Jewish Ghetto. I don't know about my parents, but I was satisfied with that alone. I would not have imagined to eat falafel in Italy, and it was so darn good.
Well before visiting Lazio and the country of Vatican City, I pondered across a dessert; a sweet bun filled with whipped cream. I was excited to seek out those places that sold these plump sweet rolls with my favorite dessert topping. Although, when I finally got my hands on one it was after proofing the dough for nearly 3 hours and baking them until puffy and cool. The day after returning from Rome I was lucky to bake these in class. Cut a slit diagonally down the center and load in the cream! They almost remind me of hot cross buns with the candied fruit and raisins. All so very good.